Italian cuisine – world class dining or baby food?

Italian food is loved around the world. Delights such as pizza and pasta have been repackaged into 2-minute ready meals and frozen cardboard-tasting deep-dish abominations that would send shudders through the gastronomic instincts of every Italian. Is there much more to the Italian menu or is it food for overgrown babies?

All Italians love to cook and love to eat, or so my Italian friends tell me. Yet, Italian men are famous for living with their mothers into their forties. If they don’t have a good reason to fly the nest, then why forfeit mama’s loving, domestic services of laundry services and heartily home cooked meals?

In recent times, this social trait has been a hot topic of debate among politicians and commentators. A section of the conservative, older generation believes this is a genuine social and economic problem. Two years ago, the Italian Minister of Economy and Finance, Tommaso Padoa-Schioppa, went one step further. He described overgrown male babies still living in their parents’ apartments as “bamboccioni”, or big babies.

In 2010, more than 60 per cent of Italians aged 18 to 34 were still living at home – and a third of them were aged in their early thirties. During these uncertain economic times the counter argument is that the younger generation does not have a secure future and many are unemployed.

Many believe that the fault generally lies with over-protective mothers who clip their children’s wings. Young adults who leave home for work or to study are usually very independent. In fact, more often than not, they are fastidiously clean and tidy and enjoy cooking for themselves.

But enough about big babies

One of the best parts of travel is experiencing the variety of foods and dining experiences that each culture dishes up. Globalisation has created a situation where most major cities have a phone book’s worth of multicultural restaurants from which to experience a variety of ethnic foods that test and tease the pallet. The British reputation for terrible cuisine, for example, no longer matters as they have inherited Indian Tikka Masalas (which were actually first concocted in an restaurant in London), Pad Thais and Mexican Fajitas, to name but a few.

I too, take pleasure in tantalising the four sensory areas of my tongue, enjoying either rich sweets and exotic spices or subtle, individual flavours. I hope I can be forgiven for my lack of understanding about Italian fare, but I don’t feel that Italian dishes compete with Asian dishes for their range of flavour enhancers. A browse through the Italian supermarket shelves highlights the boundaries to grocery shopping in Rome – at least in comparison to the United Kingdom, and even more so in the United States.

Moreover, the disappointing range of watery beers, foul-tasting ‘house wine’ and lack of mature cheddar suggests that there isn’t the market for quality in variety. With such devotion to their culture and cuisine, foreign restaurants which serve a more ethnic source of nourishment are a rarity in Rome. Are Italian taste buds restricted to a more bland range of flavours or do the rest of us lack appreciation of this fine art?

This question could perhaps spark an arm-gesticulating debate as Italians are fiercely proud of their menu. They eat with love and passion and most can cook any of the meals offered in the restaurants, and more. Proud of their roots, they can hold an all-night seminar at the dinner table about the regional variations in Italian cooking or the intricacies of food choice and timing for reasons of both nutrition and flavour.

The effect of his passion on the Italian diet and dining customs is evident. While many meals are stocked high with saturated fats, a closer examination of their menu, culture and eating habits offers some explanation.

A waistline to envy

Last year’s OECD health statistics revealed something quite startling about native English speakers and our jelly-bellies. The United States (33.8%), New Zealand (26.5%), Australia (24.6%), Canada (24.2%), the United Kingdom (23%), and Ireland (23%) occupy six of the top 10 positions on the obesity per capita table. Meanwhile, Germans sit in 24^th spot with 14.7 percent and Italy is way down the list at number 34. For a nation obsessed with cheese, why do only 10.3 per cent of Italians weigh in as obese? Why such thin waistlines?

 

OECD Health Statistics. 2011

 

The answer to this conundrum is multi-layered. Some of it rests on cultural pressures to retain a sleek physique, but what about that famous Mediterranean diet? The Italian menu possesses some heavenly, creamy and rich recipes. Yet very little is fried, breaded or processed. And Italians are fussy about the timing of meals and portion size. They believe that the method of cooking and process of eating is a regimented process which combines science and art. Never, for example, combine bread and pasta, and restrict the ingestion of carbohydrates to earlier in the day.

No other nation is so in tune with their digestive system. Whether or not you agree with the description of the Italian ‘big babies’, one thing is for sure, Italians are passionate about their culture and they are even more passionate about their food. If you’re looking for tips on how to lose weight while retaining a delicious diet, perhaps the following cultural, dining observations may help to explain a few things.

Roman dining habits

Breakfast (colazione)

For Italians, breakfast at home is usually a very simple way to start the day. A coffee with milk and a biscuit contradicts the English perception that this is the most important meal of the day. However, if they feel more adventurous, Italians will head out to the local bar (coffee shop) for a cappuccino and a croissant. The croissants (or cornetto in Italian) are often filled with a sweet, oozy delight such as strawberry jam, chocolate or custard. If you are worried about the amount of calories you will consume in Italy, this is potentially the first point of danger. Some of the croissants are injected with so much chocolate that the explosion on the first crunch leaves behind an Augustus-Gloop-mess on your face which would leave Roald Dahl’s over-sized Austrian character beaming with pride. That said; if you can hold off until lunch, a plain croissant and cappuccino will only set you back 250 calories.

Lunch (pranzo)

Lunches for Romans regularly last two hours and excitingly they often include Italy’s two great gastronomic exports – pizza and pasta. The lunch dining experience usually comprises three or more courses which may take up more than two hours of their afternoon – even during the work week. However, portion sizes make all the difference. Italians take their time, savouring each dish, often pausing between servings.

This is the largest, carbohydrate-filled meal of the day which for many generates the need for an afternoon nap. The siesta may be more famous for its association with Spain, but the post-lunch snooze in Italy is widely believed by to be a natural course for increasing worker productivity in the afternoon. Employers should allow (and even encourage) workers to nap on their work breaks.

If, however, the worker is in a hurry, they will probably choose to grab a panino (sandwich) or folded pizza to go. Convenient and tasty.

Coffee (caffè)

Thank the Lord for the absence of Starbucks in Italy – overpriced, over-roasted and over-sized. The morning coffee of choice is usually a caffe latte or cappuccino and is served in a cup one quarter of the size of the smallest option from the American chain. Espresso and macchiato are lighter, post-lunch alternatives. It is very common for Italians to grab one on the run as a quick afternoon vitality booster. Between meals snacking is a cultural no-no.

Dinner (cena)

A couple of nights ago I received my first dining lesson since moving out from living with my parents. For as long as I can remember, I have enjoyed drizzling olive oil onto a plate and carefully flowing balsamic vinegar into the centre to dip my white, crusty bread – a ceremony I have practised for years as a type of impatient ritual I use to distract me from asking for the chef to hurry up with my main course. However, the audible gasp I received from around the table made me double-check that I wasn’t pouring wine onto my plate. Every Italian looked on with pity at my mealtime misdemeanour. I’m still not exactly sure but I think that they prefer to keep the condiment puddles separated so that they can savour the individual flavours.

The last meal of the day usually takes place late in the evening after 8pm. The protein-heavy, meat-based main course is accompanied by an abundance of olive oil-soaked vegetables. This, I am assured, is the Mediterranean diet and one should not be ashamed to get stuck in at the end and mop up the sauce with a basket of crusty bread… or two.

Gelato

A friend works for a well-known confectionary brand and receives free ice-cream as a perk. Let’s just say Nick Frost’s character, Ed, in Sean of the Dead would be content on his sofa. My friend says it is rare for a day to go past without eating one of these ice-creams… and still he craves the Italian gelato for its superior quality over any brand-named dessert.

How can this creamy, frozen sweet not be sinful and enormously fattening? Italians lick it up wise to the knowledge that one soft scoop will satisfy the sweet urge without tipping the scales.

Further temptation

An abundance of eateries in all shapes and sizes makes it easy to dine at any time of the day. The attractive displays in cafes, tabaccherias (bars), enotecas (wine bars), restaurants and pizzerias call out through the shop windows which line every street of Rome. This makes it easy for tourists to regulate their eating pattern according to their own habits, free time or gluttony.

While ‘three meals a day’ is applied as a hard and fast rule by Italians, Rome still caters to the tourist’s holiday diary and experimentation.

Sunday Brunch

Brunch is bit of a novelty in Rome, although look hard enough and you will be in for a treat. Panella cafe (address below) offers an amazing selection of meats, cheeses, pastries and desserts all for 15 euros (includes one drink, coffee, alcohol or soft). However, be warned, the service around the buffet reminds you a little of Seinfeld’s Nazi Soup episode. The temperament of the staff is, let’s say, very Italian and who insist upon a strict manner of behaviour when ordering. The food is extraordinarily good but one wrong step and you fear hearing the words, ‘No food for you’.

Aperitivo

The aperitivo is often an economic, but delicious way to experience a variety of flavours on your plate. Traditionally a tasting platter to accompany drinks before the main meal, the Roman aperativo typically begins at 7pm. Businesses in the popular restaurant/bar areas compete for the post-work drinking crowd. Choose the right one, and for a slightly inflated price on your alcoholic beverage, customers are confronted by a dizzying array of cheeses, vegetables, meats, olives, nuts and pasta tasting plates.

Bar tabaccheria

Italians ‘on-the-go’ prefer to stand at the counter where they will demolish a coffee and/or sandwich before you can say ‘check please’. By doing so, they pay less than if they take their time and eat seated. These popular bars serve coffee, cakes, sandwiches, beers and general items such as tobacco and stamps.

With the exception of those located in busy tourist areas, it is common to order coffee and food at the bar before paying at the till. It is baffling that this ‘honour system’ does not lead to greater confusion. There is no strict rule for the process of ordering, eating and payment – but keeping an eye on the locals helps to save face. If you receive a receipt with your order, make sure you retain it for ease of payment. It may help you to explain to the till operator exactly which panino (sandwich) you ate.

Menu turistico

These menus are often as bad as they sound. Watch out for frozen, reheated pastas. Nevertheless, they are cheap and convenient, and if you strike it lucky, you can end up with four delicious courses for as little as 10 euros.

Aperitivo suggestion: Oasi della Birra, 40 Piazza Testaccio, Testaccio. This gorgeous restaurant offers a greater selection of tasting plates, cheeses, beers and wines than anywhere else I have discovered in Rome.

 Breakfast suggestion: Caffè Santa Rufina, 24 Piazza di Santa Rufina (just off Via della Lungaretta), Trastevere. It’s a very simple little café but the croissants ooze out a year’s supply of deliciousness.

Sunday brunch suggestion: Panella, 54 Via Merulana 54, Monti (near Vittorio Emanuele Metro station). http://www.panella-artedelpane.it/

You might be interested to read more on this topic: “Eating in Rome: 5 restaurants off the beaten past“.

 

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